Chris looks out to Sea

I spent easter in the Lyngen Alps area of Norway, this alpine landscape has seemingly endless possibilities which are untapped by the masses. It is difficult to get to, in a foreign land and the peaks are relatively extreme.

Here are some tips for doing it yourself on the relative* cheap.

*It is Norway afterall.

Getting There

Take a flight to Tromsø, sas and norwegian fly there. You will most likely be flying from outside Norway, take a flight to Oslo first then there are direct flights to Tromsø from there. There is also apparently a direct flight from Riga (Norwegian sun seekers flight), so if you can get there it can be a cheap option.

Transport

Looking up Tomasrenna and Lakelvrenna

Lyngen has been made famous in the international skiing community by the lyngen lodge with stories of skiing direct to and from the boat! This looks like an excellent holiday which you should for sure do if you can afford it. They also seem to spend a bit of time in Kafjord (across the water from Lyngen) which can sometimes have better snow.

In reality, most of the big, famous peaks are best accessed by car. So hiring a car from Tromsø is likely the best plan. The regular suspects of Avis, Sixt and Hertz operate from there. Shop around.

Accomodation

MIT Fablab and Koppangen Brygger are two good places to stay. (I have stayed in both.)

Koppangen Brygger

If you are looking to go a bit cheaper there is a DNT Cabin and at least one unlocked independent hut in the area (Fastdalshytta). These are like posh bothies, and you need a special key to get into the DNT hut. It is about £11 GBP per night to stay in Jægervasshytta . There are some sweet peaks which can be accessed direct from this hut.

A free option is to go for some camping action. You need to be pretty hardy but there are some good spots in the south west side of the lyngen alps (near Lakselvbukt a bit further south near the alley entrance Ellendalen).

Maps and Guides

• Lyngen Alps Turkart 1:50000 – this is the best map to get.
• Toppturer i Norge by Friflyt – The bible for ski mountaineering (top tours) throughout Norway with quite a few in Lyngen and the surrounding area.
• Toppturer i Troms by Friflyt – A new book describing toppturer in the Troms area of Norway. Has an extensive section on Lyngen.

Video

Here is a video compilation of our recent trip to the Lyngen Alps for Easter 2011.

Have a good trip if you are going and give me a shout if you have any questions.

Koppangen at Dusk

Relaxing after haute route completion

Disclaimer

You should really have been ski touring for a few years, have mountain experience, be able to navigate in the mountains, have glacier experience and be willing to plan a bit beforehand.

If in doubt, hire a guide.

Paper goods

• Buy Peter Cliff’s book – The Haute Route a guide for skiers and walkers
• Buy 1:50000 Maps (Martigny and Arolla (Winter 1:50000 maps, they have ski routes marked on them.))
• Buy 1:25000 Maps (The required maps are mentioned in Peter Cliff’s book.)
• Buy Glacier Mountaineering (good book for glacier travel)

Work out a version of the Haute route that suites your group.

Get a group together

Ideally all of similar ability and maximum 6 people. If possible, go ski touring with the group and meet a few times before the trip to go over plans, shared equipment etc.

Make sure you have the right equipment.

Sort out your equipment beforehand, make sure you have tested everything; make sure your boots are comfortable and dont give you blisters!

Haute route equipment list

Book the huts

Erik Vignettes

It is possible to get email addresses and phone numbers from the Swiss Alpine Club Website attempt to use broken french and book them quite long in advance. It might be worth joining one of the affiliated clubs as this results in cheaper lodgings.

Pick a time to go

We went at the very beginning of April and this was a really good time to go in that the snow was still good and it wasnt too busy on the route. Slightly earlier (maybe a week or 2) would work but you will have to check that the huts are open. Later would also work but you run into issues on the last day with being able to ski out to Zermatt depending on the snow year.

Have a wee bit of leeway in your travel plans

Bad weather may hit when you are on the trip; try to have some extra days in your travel schedule to accomodate this.

Have fun!

Any top tips or questions? Add them below.

Glacier du Mt Collon

Pigne D Arolla and Icefall

Day 5 – Arolla, Pas de Chevres to Pigne D Arolla to Vignettes Hut

We had 2 options on this day.

1. Ski direct to the Vignettes hut, same as the guided groups.
2. Rejoin the original route by crossing the Pas de Chevres, climbing the Pignes Des Arolla and then descending to the Vignettes hut.

Option 2 seemed a lot more exciting and the weather forecast was good to we decided to go for it.

Left the old school hotel last with Johan. Bought ski passes for a long poma which saved us a couple of kilometres and a few hundred metres ascent. Cheating?

Skiers on Montagne d Arolla

Roar took a cheeky line up an extra poma and did a sweet traverse to get ahead of us by like 10 minutes. I caught him on the way up the Pas de Chevres and cained all the Norwegians to the top.

Roar and old sun avalanche

Watched the Dix hut being serviced by heli which was cool, it kept swooping over my head at the top of the Pas de Chevres and down toward Arolla. Happy we bypassed the Dix as the guardian had given me an earful for not cancelling in time the day before!

Rigged up a rope and we downclimbed the ladders onto the Glacier de Cheilon. Was fun to get some ladder action with the skis on the back.

Pas De Chevres

We continued up the cheilon glacier in the heat and up to the Col de la Serpentine where the wind got up considerably.

Lone Skiers

The Pigne d Arolla stretching out before us and the Mont Blanc de Cheilon behind. This looks like a very impressive mountain and seems to be climbing possibilities and skiing possibilities on it.

Mt Blanc de Cheilon

Pigne D Arolla

The conditions were deteriorating slightly so there was a real feel of commitment and challenge in the air. The steep slope to get up to the Col du Brennay looked quite icy so it was time to get the crampons on and skis on the back and ice axe out.

Felt quite exposed on the way up, here is one of Johan getting buffeted in the wind. (hard to show in a photo!) We didnt think we were going to make the Pigne d’Arolla summit.

Johan on the windy icy section.

We got to the top and started skiing again. Eivind and I pushed on ahead, curled round some crevasses and headed toward the Pigne d Arolla summit. Amazingly the wind dropped as we approached the summit and all were able to summit. There was a guide with one client already on the top and he took some nice photos of us. They had climbed up from the Vignettes side.

Looking back the way we came

View from Pigne D Arolla Summit

Some photo taking, then an amazing descent towards the Vignettes hut. One of the best ski views I have ever had.. snow was a bit wind affected but still an amazing descent. Could have been the best descent of the trip.

Erik, Roar, Alastair, Pigne D Arolla Summit

For some reason we were greeting like heroes by the Americans and some of the guides for going the long way round. Was a great feeling to get to the hut and it is potentially the best hut we came across.

Erik Vignettes

Pigne des Arolla descent

Before taking our skis off Johan and I spotted a huge powder bowl down the other side toward Arolla so hit that before retiring to the hut. Really good powder. Johan had left his Thermos in the hotel at Arolla and was seriously considering skiing back to get it. Luckily we managed to talk him out of it!

Glacier du Mt Collon

Most groups were continuing onto the Bertol hut; but we wanted to stick to the classic route so planned to ski direct to Zermatt the next day.

6.5 hours skiing.

Day 6 – Vignettes Hut to Zermatt

Leaving the Vignettes Hut at Dawn

Excitement was high in the night which meant little sleep and we had an early rise for the ‘biggest’ day of the haute route.

The day started sourly as we lost Roar and Erik at Vignettes due to illness. It would be a team of 4 instead of 6 which was a bit sad. The plan was for them to stay in Vignettes for an extra day; luckily there were 2 places left for them!

Glacier du Mt Collon

Glacier du Mt Collon

We eventually got away from the hut at about 7am, just as it was getting light. A cruisy ski down to the Glacier du Mt Collon and on with the skins for the first of 3 cols. Medium length skin up to the Col d Eveque, passed some groups that were in front of us (we were last to leave again). We got stuck behind a guided group on the way up the skin track. Passed them at the top however and we were in concentration / speed / being ‘effective’ mode as we knew the day was a biggy!

Long line of guided groups to overtake!

Skied down the other side of the Col d Eveque, snow was a bit bind affected but nice swooping turns anyway. We then caught up the American group, got a bit of banter with them then passed them on the way up to the foot of the Col d Mt Brule. Got the crampons out again to climb this, my Camp XLC 390 crampons were excellent and was fine with pure aluminium. If going later in the season it might have been a different story.

Col du M. Brule

Col du M. Brule

Col du M. Brule

Pulled away from the stars and stripes and caught up a group of italian stallions all wearing the same closes and using similar skis! A small traverse led us onto the Glacier de Tsa de Tsan were we stopped for a spot of lunch. The climb up to the Col de Valpelline is desceptively long and we worked hard to get there.

Boys up the final glacier

Eivind and his fishnet thermals

Upon arriving we were greeted with an amazing view of the Matterhorn as we left Italy. Time to take the skins off for last time and take some photos.

Me and the matterhorn

Matterhorn (from italian side)

We proceeded to descent the heavily crevassed Stockli Glacier. It wasnt over yet. The great visibility and abundance of ski tracks made it slightly easier but you still needed to watch where you were skiing. It would have been a different story if the weather had been bad and we may have had to ski roped up!

Skiing round some crevasses

Johan and Ice

Snow conditions on the glacier were excellent spring conditions as it was approximately 1130 am when we skied it. If done too much later in the day I doubt it would have been so fun.

Sweet tele turn

Took the right fork and skied directly under the Matterhorn which was extremely cool. Johan smacked his head on a rock due to rotten snow. The dangers of telemark skiing; wouldnt have happened if his heels were attached! I also wiped out here and my bindings DIDNT release when I came over the top, which is actually just as sketchy really.

We just hit this old glacier in time as apart from a little walk we were able to ski all the way to the afterski at 2300m!

Supposed to take 8:30 to 12 hours in the guidebook. Rando racers could so it a lot faster but we were pretty happy with 6 hours!

We met a dutch group who had skied from the Bertol that day. A tasty celebratory beer was consumed.

Relaxing after haute route completion

We advised the young waitress that when the Americans arrived she was to tell them the Norwegians (and scot) had been waiting for ages and had to ski down!

Band playing at 2200m below matterhorn

Skied down to Zermatt from here on long cruisy Cat Tracks.

The fun did not end there.

Chez heine for world class lamb, afterski bar, la poste nightclub, climbing rafters and to out delight there being no bouncers, stage dancing.

I had to make it to Scotland the next day nursing a killer hangover but it was worth it!

We made it! Haute route complete!

Sunglass photo

Day 3 Mont Fort Hut to Prafleuri Hut

Excellent weather again, up early and onto the Col des Chaux, felt strong and did it in one go. A good hard start to the day.

Leaving Mont Fort Hut

Top of Col des Chaux

Switched to clothes for warm weather which helped massively. Eivind got his fishnets out, something which an English woman found very exciting.

Towards Rosablanche

Pushed onto the Rosablanche (3336m).

The slope of the Rosablanche is north facing which meant nice dry snow. Dropped the sack and did an extra round along with Eivind and Johan.

Johan Rosablanche

Afterwards we had a tasty lunch on top of a rather large cornice (we didn’t realise this at the time) and then wandered up to the top and took some photos.

Rosablanche

Learnt 2 new Norwegian words, both which translate to bitch.

Next skied all the way from near the Rosablanche summit to the Prafleuri hut. Snow at the top was amazing but it got a bit wet towards the end. Rosti and beer was waiting with the others who got there before us, as our skiing laps took more time.

Johan, Rosablanche Summit

You have to be careful about when you approach the Prafleuri hut, as late in the day there is high avalanche risk.

Some guy broke his ski and a helicopter delivered him a fresh pair en route to a helibombing mission. Only in the Alps!

Helicopter Ski Delivery

A group of plucky Americans arrived late in the day having skied from Trient and an hour or so after they arrived the approach was avalanched.

If you are a strong group I recommend skiing from Trient to Prafleuri in one day if you are doing the Verbier variation, just make sure you keep good time.

Day 4 – Prafleuri – Lac Des Dix – Prafleuri – Pralong – Arolla

Johan and Prafleuri

Started early, weather wasnt ideal with snow and bad visibility. However, the main problem was an overcast night meant that the snowpack didnt refreeze overnight. The snow was completely rotten right to the ground and skiing was challenging.

Col de Roux

All of the guided groups made the decision to turn around, we deliberated for a while but decided to also turn around as it may have not been possible to skin up the Pas du Chat. (It transpired later that a german group without a guide carried on but had to turn around due to snow conditions.) We made the right choice.

We went back the way we came over the Col De Roux to the Prafleuri to look at our options. Apparently the avalanche danger directly below the hut was too high despite the previous days helibombing. Luckily there was a 1.6km disused tunnel under the hut which would pop us out further down the mountain!

Dude in tunnel

There were loads of weird and wonderful ice structured in the tunnel. We walked with some of the guided groups.

The avalanche danger was still relatively high after the tunnel experience. When then relied on the guides to check the slopes and set off a controlled avalanche to evacuate their clients. We potentially would have been faster without the guides (and a swedish prafleuri hut guardian told us about a safer route further to skiers’ right.) but we kept with them.

We finally got to a road but unfortunately this road was closed, lots of large avalanches were funneling into the valley off a huge cliff at regular intervals. To get to civilisation it meant skis on the back and a 6km walk in ski boots to the hamlet of Pralong. Safety!

We eventually squeezed ourselves into a taxi (guided groups had priority) and drove all the way to Arolla. We stayed in the hilarious, ancient Hotel Mt Collon. The food was great, the hotel itself was a blast from the past!

Eivind and his norrona boots

Johan in ancient bathroom.

Hotel Mt Collon

Day 1 – Argentiere to Trient Hut

Looking down to Argentiere Glacier and Col du Chardonnet

Managed to actually get the first lift from Argentiere due to taxi and good organisation. We stayed at the Hotel L’Arve in Chamonix, which I recommend.

Rolf and Roar were a bit behind us in the lift line so we managed to have a cheeky expresso at the grands montets cafe.

We got going an headed down towards the Argentiere glacier via the Rognons glacier. Some crevasses but excellent visibility. Long descent to get the skiing legs back. I had done minimal downhill skiing this season, mainly snowboarding and xc skiing.

Rognons descent

We switched to skins on the Argentiere glacier and onto the Col du Chardonnet. On the way up we used ski crampons. I used mine for the first time and learned that skiing downhill on them is not a good idea when there is rocks around. I ripped off the dynafit plastic mount. Bindings were otherwise fine.

Chardonnet Ascent

Looking back to Rognons Glacier

It flattened off then we got to the abseil over the other side. We had 2×30m ropes with us and rope-round-the-back side slipped down the col. This was fine and exciting, potentially later in the season we would require more rope to do this. Also we relied on the next party to unclip rope for us.

Chardonnet

Skinning up chardonnet from Argentiere Glacier

Chardonnet crew

Johan waited for rope release and skied down the last section with the rope, as he arrived at the group he had a very impressive wipeout.

Col du Chardonnet

Next a traverse ski and then up over the Col de Saleina; Skis on the pack for this one and the thin air took a bit of getting used to; tough times.

Fenetre de Saleina

On the other side of the col we saw both the Trient hut and some sexy lines above the Col du Tour. I was persuaded by Johan and Erik to hit this, so off we went for an extra tour.

Eivind

Unfortunately the turns were not as nice as they looked; the snow was breakable crust! So we had to do Italian style turns to make it down.

Food at the Trient was excellent, portions slightly small however and the guardian crew not the most friendly. The main guardian was nice though.

Norsk Crew

Important to drink a lot of water at altitude and to rehydrate in the huts. Water, Coke and Beer all have their benefits!

Heineken and Girl

6hrs 40min

Couloir Copt (Xavier de la Rue hit this.)

Saleina Dusk

Day 2 – Trient Hut to Mont Fort Hut

Up quite early, we were the second last group to leave the hut. Down the Trient glacier where there were quite a few holes.

Col des Escandies

Over the col des escandies, with skis on back and ice axe, no crampons.

Smiling Col des Escandies

Peein Col des Escandies

Nice skiing down the Val D Arpette into Champex ski resort. Saw the point d’orney couloir over the backside of the Trient hut which we should really have hit as the conditions were good for it.

Val d Arpette

Val D Arpette

As we arrived at the ski resort we were lucky enough to arrive around 10:10am when there was a bus at 10:25am which took us to Osieres. From here we got a train to Le Chable via Sembrancher. From Le Chable you can get a cable car to Verbier. Maybe a taxi would be faster but not sure how much it would cost.

Val D Arpette

The boys carried on up to the Les Attelas restaurant for some tasty food. I went to Mountain Air in Verbier and got my binding spacer replaced by a friendly dude for a reasonable price.

Chilled out at Attelas restaurant and hoovered up leftovers, then onto Mont Fort hut for more beers, wine and chilling out.

A funny moment was witnessing a group of yah’s skiing down from the Mont Fort hut half cut in the pitch dark without headtorches at 11pm. Hope they made it safely back without getting buggered!

2 hrs 05min skiing!